After an 11-year, €100 million makeover the Royal Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp (known by its Flemish acronym KMSKA) has reopened in its imposing, neoclassical building to take its place among Europe’s finest. The collection offers an almost complete overview of Flemish and Belgian art, from the great 15th century Primitives such as Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling to more recent stars such as James Ensor and Rik Wouters. Pride of place goes to Antwerp’s favourite son, Peter Paul Rubens.